January 19, 2023: Clearwater
Marina, Clearwater FL:
WE MADE IT!
Last Sunday afternoon we
made the 180 Mile overnight crossing from Carrabelle Florida to Tarpon Springs
Florida. What a night. One we will certainly never forget, and it was an
uneventful, beautiful, LONG night, 21.5 hours in total. I’ll go into the
highlights but in general we are so relieved to have this leg behind us. There
are other challenging bodies of water we will need to cross; Delaware Bay is probably
the 2nd greatest challenge but that one will be in daylight.
As you may recall we
were planning to cross with 16 other boats the night of the full moon on January
7th, but we were unable to due to an engine issue and were delayed in
Apalachicola for 5 nights. We had a great trip to Carrabelle
and were planning to do the 4-day crossing, what they call The Big Bend. Two
nights at a marina and 2 nights at anchor. However, we were stuck in Carrabelle
from for 5 days waiting for the weather to calm down. We follow a weather guru
who sends out daily notices about the ability to cross to Tarpon Springs (the Overnight)
or to Stainhatchee (The Big Bend route).
Here is Eddy’s post from
Sunday our crossing day.
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Date
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15 Jan 2023,
07:57:53 |
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Title: |
Daily Weather Wag
Post
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We had no interest in
waiting another week in Carrabelle and there was no guarantee a week out that
forecast would hold. A week in weather forecasting is a lifetime, right! That
means if you moved on Sunday and Monday on the Big Bend route you would be
stuck for at least the rest of the week on anchor in winds and waves something
we REALLY didn’t want to do. Therefore, we put our big boy pants on and
committed to the overnight crossing which was not our preference. I talked it
up at the marina saying and I believed it was the best solution and found 3
other boats to travel with us. Shocking I could talk it up, as we were not
going to do the crossing alone, we had to have at least one buddy boat, the
more the better.
So rather than the
planned Big Bend, we did the overnight detail below but let’s start where we
left off, in Apalachicola, with a working
alternator and a boat ready to travel.
Wednesday
January 11, 2023, Travel Day # 88 The Icehouse, Apalachicola FL to The Moorings
Carrabelle Fl: Total Distance 30 Miles, Total Time 4.5 Hours, Our mechanic Tim, showed
up on Wednesday morning at 8:30 AM as agreed and he was done installing the
belt tensioner by 9:00 and we were underway just after 9:30 AM. Tim was
excellent. In fact, Tim even called me in the middle of the day to make sure things
were working. He said if I had any issue he would drive to Carrabelle and work
on the boat! Outstanding service.
It
was a great day to travel 60 degrees with very little wind and 1–2-foot seas.
We spent the day in Apalachicola Bay which was a wide (7-miles) and long (25 -miles)
body of water. The channel was only 150 feet wide like most of the Gulf
Intercoastal Water Way (GIWW) so you really have to stay on your toes to not
drift out of the channel.
There
really was nothing to look at no homes or industry like the rest of the Eastern
end of the GIWW , its mostly swamp and Cypris trees. The pictures I too will
show the landscape, but I didn’t even take many because it doesn’t change.
We
had reservations a C-Quarters Marina and when we pulled in we were in a
terrible slip. Meredith was unable to get off the boat and they were unable to
relocate us. We then made the decision to move to The Moorings, which was 3
times as expensive. However, not being able to get off the boat was
unacceptable. The Moorings docks were excellent but a long way from the actual marina
and the town. The next morning, I went back to C-Quarters and was able to find
a slip that worked.. The Dockmaster, Kim, was not there when we arrived on Wednesday.
Thursday she took great care of us, so we moved Her Idea and everything worked
out great. There were 5 other loopers (we made 6) at C-Quarters and the
location to everything in town was much better. Also, the Dockmaster Kim is excellent
at helping with the weather forecasting, she is another very valuable resource
and did I mention one third the price!
When
we arrived on Wednesday Eddy the weather guru was predicting a 4–5-day delay until
we could travel on either of the two routes, so we all ended up being stuck in Carrabelle
for 5 days. Eddy was predicting only one good crossing window in the next 10
days. That is when it became apparent to us that the overnight crossing was in
our best interest. The boats who were on the big bend route ahead of us were
also stuck in their various locations for the same 5 days.
No one was moving.
Fortunately,
we were at a marina and in a small town with a great pub, an IGA and an Ace
hardware store, all one needs when you are looping. Oh, and I also got a
haircut, it was a great little town however, we didn’t want to spend another
week or more there.
As I write this on January 19th, Eddy
is still predicting there will not be another night crossing in January and the
two boats who took the Big Bend were stuck on anchor for two nights and made
the long ride to Tarpon Springs yesterday and arrive in the dark last night,
after a miserable passage. Therefore, we did made the right call. Eddy’s forecast
from yesterday
Group: |
Weather Wag |
Created
by: |
Eddy Johnsen |
Date
& Time: |
18 Jan 2023,
07:09:24 |
Title: |
Daily Weather Wag
Post |
Message: |
Wednesday,
18 January 2023 |
GIWW Buoys, a lot smaller than the ones we have on the Maine Coast and made of Styrofoam
Sunday,
January 16,2023 Travel Day # 89-90 C Quarters Marina, Carrabelle Fl to Mar
Marina Tarpon Springs FL. Total Distance
180 Miles, Total Time 21 Hours
When
we arrived in Carrabelle 5 of the 6 loopers were planning (us included) to do
the Big Bend route. However, by Saturday night we had a confirmation of 4 boats
to do the overnight crossing all departing from Carrabelle and another looper
who was departing from Apalachicola that morning was going to meet us off Dog
Island the last barrier island before you get into the Gulf. We had agreed to
meet Latitude at 3 PM, which was 8 miles from our marina, so we departed
C Quarters at 1:45 PM. As we approached Dog Island sure enough Latitude was
waiting for us and she joined the flotilla and the 5 of us headed out into the
gulf. Visibility was unlimited, very little wind 5 knots and the seas under 1
foot, just perfect conditions (as Eddy predicted) for our crossing.
Now
one thing we were concerned about was the temperature. We awoke on Sunday
morning. It was 30 degrees 30! In fact, we had an outside faucet freeze
on us that night. So our reality is, we can only drive the boat from the top
side which is really outside and so we were anticipating a very cold passage
and luckily it never dropped below 40 Sunday night, not that 40 is warm, but it’s
not 30!
The
reason you depart late in the afternoon is so that you arrive 30 miles off the
coast of Florida at sunrise. That gives you one hour of cruising ( 7 AM – 8 AM)
while being blinded by the sun, as the sun is right in your eyes until you get
into the “Crab Pots mine field”. Twenty miles offshore the water drops from 40
feet to 8 feet and that is where the crab pots are in the shallow water. The
last 3 hours you spend dodging crab pots.
Now
I figured heck I know lobster pots no big deal! However, unlike lobster traps crab
pots are connected so there is a line from one to the other which you can’t
cross (they don’t use sinking lines) or you risk getting tangled. We have Prop Cutters
(that are designed to cut the pot lies so the lines don’t wrap around your
prop) but that doesn’t mean you can’t
get tangled in the lines and many of us have! So, when you see one buoy you must
figure out where that one is in relationship to the rest of the string and what
direction they are lined up in. However, that’s not the worst aspect, that
would be the darn things are only the size of a cantaloupe, and they are black
and some white. Maine lobster buoys are bright: red, green, orange, yellow, not
Crab pot buoys, they are small and blend into the water, insane!
Therefore,
you don’t want to arrive in the Crab Pot Mine Field until the sun is up at
least until 8 AM, which we were able to do.
So
the crossing overall was amazing, certainly scary and I’ll be honest the anxiety
of doing it kept me up at night , actually that not true, I fall asleep fine
but once I wake at 3-4 AM, I couldn’t
get it out of my mind so could not sleep. (probable oversharing here!) The
worry is if something goes wrong (and we have had plenty of stuff go wrong,
right?) you are so far from help. The entire trip you are 45 miles from the
Florida coast and 950 miles to the coast of Mexico (not that that is an
option)! At midnight we were halfway across to 90 miles from Tarpon Springs and 90 miles from Carrabelle,
that is in the middle of nowhere for sure. The great news is everything worked
just great we didn’t have any problems all my batteries behaved, thank you
Lord!
We
had a wonderful sunset at 6 PM and the sky stayed bright until 7:30 just a
beautiful dusk. We were aware in advance but at sunset they launched a rocket
from Cape Canaveral, which was cool to see. We were unable to see the rocket itself,
just the contrail of smoke but very cool. Once dusk disappeared it was dark,
very dark, inside of a pocket dark. It took us a half hour to get our eyes to
adjust to the darkness very discombobulating. However, the stars were amazing,
think about being 40 square miles away from any light and the star show
was amazing. Then at 1 AM the moon rose it was a half moon, and suddenly this
brilliant red blaze just lifted in front of us. That was so breathtaking and so
welcomed because we now had a moonlight! Then at 7 AM we had a magnificent
sunrise just stunning! Those were the 5 highlights, Rocket Launch, sunset, the
stars, the moonrise, and the sunrise all unobstructed views. This is the stuff that has made this trip so
special and amazing, we are truly blessed. WE didn’t want to do the overnight
and it turned out to be a true highlight, you just never know what is around
the next turn, certainly something you were not aware of.
The
5 boats we traveled with, we all stayed in the same position all night. We were
the 4th boat in line, and we had one boat off our starboard side
which worked well for us. We had three boats’ lights to follow and one buddy
boat to starboard. We occasionally chatted with the other boats.
However, when you talked on the radio the person off watch was awaken so we
kept it pretty radio silent. We did two hour shifts one of us would drive and
one would lay down on the bench next to the captain’s chair. Meredith had made
two meals for us so all we had to do is heat them up, which was great. We had
two cups of coffee and were able to stay awake when we were on watch, and it
worked great. I have an amazing Admiral, I’m one lucky guy, we make a great
team!
At
Sunrise we were about 30 miles offshore and we were able to cruise into Tarpon
Springs at 10:30 AM. We got tied up and had a beer for breakfast, might have
been one of the better beers on the trip, certainly a great accomplishment. We
cleaned up the boat and had lunch and took an hours nap and washed the boat
down. One of the things we got use to in the rivers and lakes is fresh water.
Now back in salt water we must wash the spray off the boat, or the salt just
hardens on the hull. We ate dinner and watch the beginning of the Bucs game
(hopefully Brady’s last one) and went to bed at 9 PM and didn’t get up until 9
AM! I haven’t slept that long since
college, which was the last time I pulled an all-nighter! 12 hours sleep and
not an anxious moment. I felt like a new man, what a difference it is to have
this crossing behind us. It was a really intimidating trip that turned out to
be a once in a lifetime experience
C-Quarters in Carrabelle
Sunrise
Land Ho
Crab Pot Buoys
Breakfast of Champions
Wednesday,
January 18,2023 Travel Day # 91 Mar Marina Tarpon Springs FL. To Clearwater Municipal Marina, Clearwater FL Total
Distance 22 Miles, Total Time 3 Hours
Tarpon Springs was a wonderful landing spot for our overnight
crossing. We arrived Monday chilled Monday
and then on Tuesday were able to check out the town. We have a good friend Marci
Acquaviva who recently purchased a home here and I think she made a great
decision. I will include some pictures but Tarpon Springs claim to fame is the
sponges that they harvest. We ate lunch at Rusty Bellies which was amazing. The
Great Loop have Harbor Hosts in most towns who provide fellow loopers with advice on what to do in town and in Tarpon
Springs the Harbor Host is a legend Herb Senton. Herb has been a wise elder for
me for the past two years and has been an amazing resource for me. Herb recommended
Rusty Bellies as the best seafood in town, and it did not disappoint.
My guess is we will be Harbor Hosts going forward in
Kennebunk, as there is a DownEast loop that folks do.
So, onto our travel day.
We only had a short run to Clearwater so we left Tarpon
Springs at 10 AM and spent 3 hours cruising down the ICW 22 mile and it was a
perfect day. The ICW is well marked and is 200 yards wide and navigation is
simple. We arrived in Clearwater early in the afternoon and tied up. We had
lunch and then cleaned the boat. We are staying at the Clearwater Municipal Marina
at Clearwater Beach and are just 1/4 mile from the beach. We went for a great 2 hour walk on the beach,
then came back to the boat so I could work on this blog (this blog is SOOO much
more than I expected) then went out for a very nice dinner and came back to the
boat, so I could spend the rest of the night finishing this! Meredith read! No cribbage tonight, and if you
don’t play you don’t lose!
The very best thing is we are still so relaxed, and
enjoying the adventure, having “The Crossing” behind us is such a relief. I’ll
get off my soap box, The Crossing is behind us, enough is enough.
Tarpon Springs
Rusty Bellies
Sponge Boats
Cruising to Clearwater
We will be spending the month of February in Stuart, another month of R&R.
We have 2 weeks to get there, which is only 300 miles. We are planning to spend two weeks getting to Stuart and we have several great stops planned which include the Sarasota and Venice Yacht Clubs. Then we have to travel through Fort Myers which will be spooky ( Ian wiped out the marinas there) and then crossing Lake Okeechobee. We are so excited for this next journey and we will hopefully be hooking up with several friends that live in this area.
Fair winds and thanks for all your prayers (I know, I said I was done with the crossing) but just wanted to thank you all, amen!
What a nail biter! Glad you made it safely with all technology and engine parts working. Great blog. Best, Anne (Hussey)
ReplyDeletenice haircut. I appreciate you taking the time to write this blog! I read it every time and learn alot. Mike S.
ReplyDeleteWow!! What can I say?? You guys are amazing! Looking forward to seeing you in Stuart 👍❤️
ReplyDeleteJack and Meredith -- Very very impressive. Respect and admire everything about this trip. Takes lots of courage and a little bit of (good) craziness.
ReplyDeleteHey, my sister and brother-in-law live in Stuart and Kath and I are coming for a visit, Feb 22 to Feb 27, in a perfect world we'd love to get a chance to connect if you aren't gone by then. Maybe send me an email.
Dave Bois
You two travelers never cease to amaze me! Great job. xoxo Limo
ReplyDeleteAmazing voyage! So did you get a tattoo while you waited for your food?
ReplyDeleteVery glad you made that crossing safe Jack. We are still watching your journey . Your friends from 1000- islands stop in NYS
ReplyDeleteWow, what an amazing trip! So glad you are done with the crossing. Sounds like the next leg should be less stressful and you get to enjoy some time with friends in February. Love reading your blog. Hi to Meredith!!
ReplyDeleteI am happy for you both and now some fun time in the Florida sun.
ReplyDeleteI could drive to Stuart as it is about a 3 hour drive. Let me know if that would be ok and work for you. I am sooo happy to read and enjoy your excursions as most of your followers do. What a TRIP...
Fort Myers might still be a little scary. Charlie & I went thru there last month and the marinas still had boats on top of boats. The devastation was sobering, photos online do not due it justice. But they have made amazing progress, and hopefully it will be smooth. We are not far from there, if you need us we are just a text message away.
ReplyDelete